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Thethi, a Malisor mountain village in far northern Albania

The mountain village of Thethi (or Theth when in a sentence with a preposition as in "to", "in" or "from Theth") lies in the valley of the Lumi i Shalës, the Shala river in the Malësia e Madhe mountains in the north of Albania. The "Accursed Mountains" as they are sometimes called, tower high above the Shala Valley, with snow clinging to their summits even in midsummer. Here is one of Europe's most remote areas where the age-old traditions of the Kanun, the code of 15th-century prince Leka Dukagjini still survives. In this law "besa", something akin to word of honor or sacred promise was absolutely paramount and violations could lead to reprisals and blood feuds that could last for generations. Theth's "Kulla e ngujemit", the lock-in tower is the windowless stone building was where the men of a feuding family could take refuge for months or even years. It could easily be defended with its high walls and only slits for windows. The men would survive on livestock kept on the ground floor and food brought by the family's women, who were never targeted. Although those kullas are no longer used, the tribal culture associated with them still lingers, in spite of the four decades of harsh communist rule when the regime tried to stamp out tribal practices.

Life is hard here in winter with heavy snows closing the road in winter and the population has been dwindling over the years; there are many abandoned houses, fallen into ruins. The Roman Catholic church is still the centre of the local people, ofter called "Malisor" (mountain people), who greet visitors with a glass of raki (an anise-flavored spirit) and small cups of thick, sweet coffee: under Albanian tradition and the Kanun, you cannot turn away a guest. But tourism is putting Thethi on the map and local families are now taking paying guests into their homes, offering them a wonderful opportunity to experience life in this unique corner of the Balkans. There is now a school in the village where youngsters are learning English. This is a part of the Balkans Peace Park Project which is creating a trans-national, cross-border park in the adjoining mountain areas of Kosovo, Montenegro and northern Albania as a symbol of peace and cooperation. There are great trekking possiblities like the walk to Valbona, to the west across a pass via the village of Rrogami.

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